The Last Food of England
 
Another fowl finds a new home. Poultry sales are crowded, friendly, sub-cultural, and orchestrated events. There are hens with quiffs, collars, combs, leggings, trousers, and pencil pattern feathers. Old hands and first time buyers file up and down between the cages. Some people go to look, no more, and come away with chickens for their back yard. Such are the demands of fashion and commerce that some of the most distinguished breeds in England face extinction. The Dorking, mentioned by the Romans, is one.

West Country September 2005