The Last Food of England
 
York ham cured by Keith Addyman, serious for a moment (not really). The vendor's thumb rests on the oyster bone, the joint where the genuine article is cut. The pork, salted the previous year, is now ready to eat. The crust is too hard for flies to get in. The meat can be tested by running a skewer in and out, and sniffing it for sweetness. The buyers of such hams today are mostly country people stocking up for Christmas, or travellers on the way to family gatherings or fairs. The failure to protect the name of York, coupled with ham, has been a tragedy.

North of England September 2005