The Last Food of England
 
Butcher in chain mail: a pig's head is worth nothing to some people, a curious fate for such delicate food and the former centre piece at banquets. The cheek, chap or chawl, and the snout, which resembles ox tongue, are the best bits. Rich as the meat can be, ironically for health gurus, it is the OLDER generation of country people who eat the most. Brawn, one of England's most toothsome and traditional dishes, is made from a pig's head. This shop in Lancashire was also selling what is politely called 'white kidneys' or lamb 'stones'.

North of England July 2005